The fifth edition of GemGenève gemgeneve.com that took place from 3rd to 6th November 2022 at Palaexpo in Geneva saw a great participation of select visitors, collectors and dealers.
Press conference Gemgenève
176 exhibitors, including 144 dealers and more than 5,000 visitors attended this Gem and Jewelry show looking to discover outstanding precious gemstones, jewelry and other treasures showcased there. A 7% increase over the last May 2022 edition! Ronny Totah, Co-founder of Gemgeneve, declared: “The November 2022 edition was excellent, both for the top-range of the exhibitors present and for the cultural program, making GemGenève a true event. All participants are looking forward to the next edition in May 2023.”
The opening ceremony, left to right: Mauro Poggia, President of the State Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva, Ronny Totah co-founder of GemGenève, Gaetano Cavalieri, President of CIBJO, Thomas Faerber, co-founder of GemGenève
For this new edition, the organizers Ronny Totah and Thomas Faerber transformed Hall 6 into a breathtaking surrounding thanks to the amazing orange and purple set-up everywhere, including a mini “Jet d’eau” in front of the Tom & Ronny’s Brasserie, infusing energy and good vibes among the participants. Visitors showed great appreciation for ‘le Village des Savoirs’ (hosting the schools and the Villa that housed the Gem Museum of Singapore and the micro-mosaic exhibition), ’Le Village des Designers’ (a space bringing together all the contemporary designers). There was also a digital capsule at the disposal of journalists, YouTubers and podcast creators.
The schools present were HEAD, ASMEBI and CREA. Donatella Zappieri, jewelry business Consultant and luxury and jewelry expert at Créa Omnes Éducation developed the project CREA EYES, an Instagram account managed by her students who created content during the show. GemGenève dedicated a special place to designers, including the Vivarium Quartet, curated by the famous Jewelry Historian Vivienne Becker. The avant-garde Quartet featured the creations of Alexandra Jefford, Alix Dumas, Philippe Lauras and Elena Okutova.
Alix Dumas, an independent French jewelry designer, founder of Mad Joaillerie, explained: “my pieces are all unique. Through them I wish to inspire poetry, feelings and all kind of emotions. Gemgenève is the right place to showcase my art creations”. Nadège Totah selected Emerging Talents and New Designers, a unique launch-pad for the rising stars of jewelry design. On display the art pieces by Wallis Hong, Joaillerie Vincent Michel, Serendipity Jewelry, Youra Jewelry. For Wallis Hong visit my article www.celebremagazine.world/watches-jewels/wallis-hong-a-poet-of-the-inner-world published on Swiss Luxury Magazine Celebre Magazine World.
Eternal Butterfly II brooch, Siren Earrings and watch by Wallis Hong
Rabaa Saleh Alangari Creative Director of Saudi Arabian brand Youra Jewelry told me: “We are very happy to be here in Gemgenève and to present our collection Shades of Dates. We are satisfied to be able to show our masterpieces. That was a real success”. Among the well-established designers I was struck by Master Goldsmith Sean Gilson’s personally hand-crafted pieces and I also tried on his stunning Grey Agate, Pearl and Angelskin Coral Bracelet and his Coral, moonstone and chalcedony earrings. This American Jeweler is well known for his technical innovations and sophisticated sense of color.
Coral and turquoise pin – Sean Gilson
The Strong & Precious project – For the second time running at the initiative of Thomas Faerber, GemGenève presented Strong and Precious – Ukrainian Jewellers curated by Olga Oleksenko and Natalia Kietiene, featuring pieces by several Ukrainian designers including Nomis, Inesa Kovalova, Bevza, Rockah, Sergey Zhernov Art & Jewellery, Drutis Jewellery, Lutiki, Gunia, and Denis Music. Also, on display antique jewels by Joseph Marchak, the most famous Ukrainian jeweler of the 20th century. The intent is to valorize Ukrainian brands in these extremely difficult times for their homeland.
Rachael Taylor, acting Editor Rapaport, writer and journalist, wearing Inesa Kovalova’s earrings
The presence of a Ukrainian stand at Gemgenève was noticed by Sotheby’s: the auction house’s Director and Jewelry Specialist Marie-Cécile Cisamolo decided to organize a charity auction where a selection of jewelry created and donated by Ukrainian jewelers from Strong and Precious and pieces donated by three jewelry dealers present at GemGenève – Faerber Collection, Golay Fils & Stahl, Paul Fisher – and by Margherita Burgener went under the hammer on 10th November 2022. All proceeds from the auction will be donated to the Superhumans Center charity for victims of the war in Ukraine. Gemgenève stands out for the quality of exquisite diamond cuts, wonderful colored gemstones and top tier signed jewelry. On the diamond front, MID House of Diamonds, one of the world’s largest and most respected manufacturers and distributors of polished diamonds and loose diamonds, offered top quality stones. Among the colored gem suppliers Fuli Gemstones showed me their selection of green peridots from their mine in Northern China and I also appreciated creations made by important jewelers with their gems.
Pia Tonna, Chief Marketing Officer & Executive Director of Fuli Gemstones said: “Gemgenève is a really prestigious show. You have got a lot of color, a lot of amazing cuts. We are also here sharing our amazing peridots which we hope people will find also as fascinating as the show”. Katie Manderson, founder of Honest London, explained: “We work with several designers including Harriet Morris, Akansha Sethi, Stephen Webster, Zeemou Zeng Fine Jewelry, master cutter Mark Nuell. These gemstones have 160 facets which is an incredible feat.”
Harriet Morris for Fuli Gemstones
On display wonderful corals by Enzo Liverino, since 1894 manufacturer of corals and cameos. I interviewed Mr. Liverino and he spoke about his passion for corals since his childhood. He showed me different kinds of coral creations such as a precious Moro coral necklace, an Angel skin necklace and others. I was particularly struck by two daggers made in 2020 by Jan Fabre with Liverino’s pearls.
Enzo Liverino and Laura Astrologo Porché with the precious daggers
GemGenève also offered its visitors a fully immersive experience into the different skills involved in the jewelry industry, with a rich program:
- 15 talks and a workshop; videos of the talks are available at digital.gemgeneve.com
Among the others, I personally attended:
- “History of Bulgari and the creation of its style”, Amanda Triossi;
- Splendida et Minuta: Fashionable Roman Micro Mosaic Jewels, a Grand Tour around the XVIII and XIX century production from the origins in Rome to the Napoleonic court and the Archaeological revival, Prof. Anna Maria Massinelli and Andrea Petochi
- Panel discussion moderated by Katerina Perez (influencer), with David Roux-Fouillet (Head of the Department of Product Design, Jewelry and Accessories, HEAD Geneva), Olivier Bachet (expert) and Vivienne Becker (historian of jewelry, author);
- The art of micromosaics, origins, inspirations and techniques, Alice Minter and Sophie Bärtschi moderated by Gislain Aucremanne (jewelry historian);
- Collecting antique jewelry conversation with Helen Molesworth and Vivienne Becker.Vivienne Becker underlined the huge revival and interest in this subject.
Vivienne Becker and Laura Astrologo Porché
- 4 special exhibitions: one dedicated to Fabergé by the Igor Carl Fabergé Foundation; another dedicated to micro-mosaics through the ages; the Singapore Gem Museum exhibition featuring a fascinating and educational presentation of precious stones and scientific awareness workshops; and an exhibition staged by the Grand Théâtre de Genève displaying the costumes used for La Juive, an opera by Fromental Halévy.
The Igor Carl Fabergé Foundation, which celebrates its 40th anniversary this year, presented a particularly beautiful exhibition showcasing more than 120 little-known and previously unseen objet d’art including three Imperial eggs.
Nephrite Grand Duchess Egg, 1904
Important jewelled silver swan circa 1900
Mr. Bernard Ivaldi, Alexandra Blin-Kourbatoff, President and Vice President of Fondation Igor Carl Fabergé respectively and Laura Astrologo Porché
Alexandra Blin-Kourbatoff declared: “We were very pleased to organize this unique exhibition at Gemgenève; above all because these pieces are very different from what people normally associate with Fabergé: the Imperial Easter Eggs. Here we also present objet de vertu and curiosities”.
I wish to conclude this article with Thomas Faerber’s words: “It’s been a great edition. We’ve had positive feedback from many of those taking part about the organisation, design and layout of the exhibition. Most of the exhibitors were visibly happy as they left the event, a sign of business having been good.”
I look forward to the next edition of Gemgenève from the 11th May to the 14th May, 2023!
Photo Credits: @journaldesbijoux – Andras Barta – Fuli Gemstones – Gemgenève – Sean Gilson
Article edit by Laura Astrologo Porché